As could be expected from the former child star, justin bieber clothes has already established many a fashion transformation through the years. He’s done quiffed hair plus a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented using a floppy fringe and a suit. But although some of his efforts to toughen up are already met with derision, the newest part in the Biebvolution is really bang in the fashion money. We have seen ripped jeans. There have been oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts with all the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, there has been a lot of layering – and many raw edges.
Not everyone gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s response to his Marques’Almeida moment with the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) nevertheless the latest incarnation of Bieber ties right into a mood that is certainly sweeping through menswear – and may even be arriving in your wardrobe soon.
Simply speaking: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy has gone out. Deliberately undone and messy is in. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge using a tracksuit top along with a pierced ear thrown set for good measure. You could potentially dub it a hot mess for men, but the one thing you would never refer to it as is hipster – manicured beards must be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber clothing wore to the teen awards, has been integral for the surge in rise in popularity of denim and also jeans that happen to be hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the type of look which enables parents eyeroll and say: “You paid for that? Do want me to put proper hems on those?”, then it has legs. Elsewhere in the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent herringbone trousers that was roughly cut off on the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a kind of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing happening; close up, the holes within these knits are layered spanning a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a kind of anti-luxury luxury – could there be in the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy certainly is the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is a superb reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, one of the most in-demand photographers popular, these pictures possess a typical masculine rawness. In a short video to accompany this shoot, you can even see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories for your latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile is that this Man?, whilst the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The second sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a couple of days worth of facial hair.
Haute scruff was throughout probably the most talked-about moments from the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, which had been held in a Chinese restaurant variously referred to as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes which were all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like they had just presented of bed. Many of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, like the parcel delivery service); even the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a start up the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots and a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence in fashion is simply set to keep: once the show, among Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, was to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy can be another of your buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label has been backed by Comme des Garçons. His clothes feel like a nerdy carry out Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, although not.
In fact, if all else fails, the key to this particular look is really a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for males. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for girls (see British Vogue’s December issue, through which several tracktops are featured in the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a bit Damon Albarn circa 1996. Why does this humble zip-up sum up this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, mainly because it ticks the 1990s box – and also the dexqpkyy16 is starting to become the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the opposite of all of the justin bieber t shirt which has been the headline news in menswear over the past few years. Not only that, it’s simple to chuck on, doesn’t appear to be you’ve made an endeavor but suggests that you know what’s happening. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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